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In 1998 I bought a Triumph Herald 13/60, here you can read about it's restoration and share in a few photo's from it's travels. Please feel free to leave comments to any of the posts, of even email me if you want to.

Thursday, March 9, 2017

Converting a Triumph Herald to EFI (Part 6 - Fuel Tank & Pump Update)

The initial tank/pump set-up has worked perfectly, but the pump is a little exposed on the boot outrigger, so does get more than its fair share of mud and water spray from the rear wheels, plus it's quite noisy. Not when you're in the car, especially when driving, but noticeable if your outside.

After reading many article on how people have approached this area, I decided to revisit the set-up. The plan this time is to modify a Vitesse tank to take an internal pump, the pump of choice is one that fits a classic Range Rover.

First thing was to find a donor tank to modify, condition was not too important as it was going to be cut up anyway. A local TSSC Devon member had a few, so a deal was done.

First thing was to cut one side off to give full access to the inside of the tank, it was then given a very hot jet wash to remove most of the gum and surface rust within. If you've ever wondered what the inside of a Vitesse tank looks like, here it is.

Fuel Tank with the side removed
Whilst the side was off it was an opportunity to increase the capacity of the tank. I cut a couple of strips of steel, joggled both edges to allow an overlap and tack welded it on to the main body. With my very rough calculations I reckon the band will an extra 2 gallons, I could have gone more, but wanted to retain some boot space!

Banded to add extra capacity
I knew of another Triumph owner who had used the same pump and had made a flange for it to mount to, so I approached him to make another and he kindly obliged (Thank you Roger). The flange was mounted centrally and near the back of the tank so that the pick up would be in the lowest part of the tank. I had to extend the length of the pump slightly and then created a baffle around its pick-up to help when the fuel is low.

Pump, Flange & Baffle
After some modification to the main baffles within the tank, I slipped the side over the edge of the banding and tack welded in place. Once I was happy everything was in the right place, it was fully welded along with the flange for the pump.

Tank fully welded
I used some car body filler to smooth out the welded areas, the taped up areas you can see in the image below are in preparation for a Frost Tank Sealer treatment. With the amount of welding that was needed and the fact it was done with a MIG, there was no way it was going to be fuel tight. I have used these sealer kits many times to good effect.

Cleaned up and filled
Even though the tank was solid it was still covered in surface rust, so it was initially brush painted with POR-15 Rust Preventative paint. It was then sanded back smooth and painted with a 2K black gloss. To minimise the new pump resonating through the tank, I used several self adhesive bitumen sound deadening pads.

Ready to Fit
There are several advantages to this revised set-up, the pump is quieter, kept cooler by the fuel, the main filter is now be in the boot rather than engine bay, it tidies up the underside of the boot area and the extra capacity increases the range by 60-70 miles.

Tank fitted
I did have minor panic before fitting, I have to admit to completely forgetting about the spare wheel and whether I'd be able to access it with the tank in, fortunately I can remove and refit quite comfortably.

Clearance for spare wheel
Apart from revisiting the Idle Control Valve at some point, that is the conversion complete. If you'd like to see all the images you can see them here: https://tinyurl.com/jyk8u9w.

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